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Sugar
“I swooned quietly with my first bite. The dish sang with the flavors of Spain and was packed with chunks of browned rabbit, chorizo, and mussels. It was spectacular and camaraderie crushing. "Who made this? Who possibly had time for this?" I was talking through a mouthful of Arboro rice. "I made this once in culinary school and it took an entire day of my life that I'll never get back."
"Reza made it." Carlo used an empty mussel shell to pluck the meat out from another shell. "He said he cooked it over an open fire with orange and pine branches for kindling." Carlo grinned at me, a dribble of olive oil snaking its way down his chin. "According to Reza, it's the pine cones, though, that really do the trick. I'm sure you discovered that yourself when you made it on the day you'll never get back."
I nibbled on a cut of caramelized chorizo but didn't have the chance to reply.”
Surf And Turf
Kindling
Pine Cone
Paella
Chorizo
Food Whore: A Novel of Dining and Deceit
“Now that you have the menu, tell me what this is."
"Tuna, vanilla brioche crumbs, and a bruléed disk of monkfish liver."
"Ah, monkfish liver! Foie gras of the sea!" Michael Saltz said, lifting his cup in a toast. I refused to join him and just tipped the bite backlit a shot, letting the mouthful take shape all at once.
Michael Saltz squinted at me while I set the cup down. If he disregarded me, then I'd disregard him.
Next, Hugo brought out a single octopus tentacle, roasted to bring out the burgundy speckles in its skin, painted with sweet, sea-infused balsamic squid ink and framed by two quarters of a ruddy pear.
We stayed silent as I ate.
Skate came wading in a chorizo broth, a cap of seaweed poking through the surface like an island paradise.”
Seafood
Octopus
Monkfish
The Book of Unholy Mischief
“I was curious about the foreign foods I would come to know as chorizo, fire-roasted piquillo peppers, La Mancha saffron sealed in blue clay jars, Serrano ham, and pickled eggplant. That kitchen smelled like a cross between my maestro's kitchen and Borgia's. It had the clean airiness I was accustomed to, but a tang of briny olives and smoked meats flavored the air.”
Spanish Food
Pretty Good Number One: An American Family Eats Tokyo
“Fish at breakfast is sometimes
himono
(semi-dried fish, intensely flavored and chewy, the Japanese equivalent of a breakfast of kippered herring or smoked salmon) and sometimes a small fillet of rich, well-salted broiled fish. Japanese cooks are expert at cutting and preparing fish with nothing but salt and high heat to produce deep flavor and a variety of textures: a little crispy over here, melting and juicy there. Some of this is technique and some is the result of a turbo-charged supply chain that scoops small, flavorful fish out of the ocean and deposits them on breakfast tables with only the briefest pause at Tsukiji fish market and a salt cure in the kitchen.
By now, I've finished my fish and am drinking miso soup. Where you find a bowl of rice,
miso shiru
is likely lurking somewhere nearby. It is most often just like the soup you've had at the beginning of a sushi meal in the West, with wakame seaweed and bits of tofu, but Iris and I were always excited when our soup bowls were filled with the shells of tiny
shijimi
clams. Clams and miso are one of those predestined culinary combos- what clams and chorizo are to Spain, clams and miso are to Japan. Shijimi clams are fingernail-sized, and they are eaten for the briny essence they release into the broth, not for what Mario Batali has called "the little bit of snot" in the shell. Miso-clam broth is among the most complex soup bases you'll ever taste, but it comes together in minutes, not the hours of simmering and skimming involved in making European stocks. As Tadashi Ono and Harris Salat explain in their book
Japanese Hot Pots
, this is because so many fermented Japanese ingredients are, in a sense, already "cooked" through beneficial bacterial and fungal actions.
Japanese food has a reputation for crossing the line from subtlety into blandness, but a good miso-clam soup is an umami bomb that begins with dashi made from
kombu
(kelp) and
katsuobushi
(bonito flakes) or
niboshi
(a school of tiny dried sardines), adds rich miso pressed through a strainer for smoothness, and is then enriched with the salty clam essence.”
Japanese
Fish
Breakfast
Miso Soup
Clams
Bread and Butter
“Are you cooking the peppers?" she asked.
"I was going to slice them over the top with the cheese," Leo said. "Too much?"
"Nope." Thea let him handle the jalapeños while she shaved off a few thin slices of cheese, a mild cheddar the cooks kept on hand for baking into cornbread or slicing onto burgers at staff meal. It was just the sort of thing she would have been moved to eat if she'd been by herself, except she would have just toasted it on bread or eaten it cold on crackers, meditating on the ring of toothmarks she left in each slice as she chewed. Leo swirled his pan, tilting it to let the last soft rivulets of egg hit the hot pan, and then wordlessly reached one hand back toward her. Thea set the sliced cheese in his palm, realizing as she did that she was a little more buzzed than she'd intended to be, because she placed the cheddar on Leo's warm skin as delicately as if it were a piece of jewelry, a hollowed, painted eggshell. He laid the cheese over the eggs, then scattered a thick layer of chorizo coins over the cheese, and finally a handful of fresh sliced jalapeño.
"And we're done," Leo said. He paused, looking around frantically until Thea realized that he had forgotten where the plates were kept. She reached beneath the prep counter and handed him two.
"Thanks," he said. He ran a spatula down the center of the eggs and lifted a golden orange pillow onto each plate, dropping yet more paprika-scented oil onto the stove and the counter.”
Cooking
Ingredients
Eggs
Omelets
Leo And Thea
The Gravity of Birds
“She knew she was delaying the inevitable- trying to locate Agnete's address- but decided to make a list of things to buy first, looking for shops close to the hotel and purposefully ignoring her uncertain finances. She dunked a sopaipilla in her coffee and brushed powdered sugar from her lips, the plate of chile-flecked fried polenta, chorizo, and eggs already finished. It might not have been a vacation, but it felt like one. She was on her own, eating strange foods, planning to spend money she wasn't sure she had, and no one was paying the slightest bit of attention to her. She had fallen down the rabbit hole.
It was easiest to come up with ideas for Saisee, whose pride in her cooking shone in everything she concocted, tossing in a pinch of this and a smidgen of that. Alice had even watched her hold crushed spices in the palm of her hand and blow them gently over the pot. 'My momma taught me that. Best way to get flavor to every part of the pot.' For here there would be white posole and blue cornmeal, a collection of chile powders, and piloncillo, the little cones of unrefined Mexican sugars Alice imagined she might use to make caramelized custard.”
Gift
Independence
Spices
Mexican Food
Souvenir
Alice Kessler
Saisee
Out to Lunch
“You have to come for dinner soon. Alana seems to have perfected this insane braised chicken with chorizo and chickpeas that is perfect for this weather," he says, bragging about his wife. Alana is a terrific chef, best known for her role assisting Patrick Conlon on Master Chef Battle, and her own new show, Abundance, both staples on my TiVo. I've known her since I catered a cocktail party for her former boss Maria De Costa, the talk show host, about fifteen years ago, and we have stayed in casual touch ever since. When she moved into the neighborhood, we got a little closer, but since Aimee got sick I haven't been as good about staying in touch. But considering that was around the time she met RJ, she's been too really busy to notice.”
Alana Ostermann
Alana And Rj
Off The Menu
Patrick Conlon
How to Eat a Cupcake
“Once we'd balled up our burrito wrappers and tossed them into the trash, Jake and I walked several blocks from El Farolito to the home of Gus, a rescued shepherd mix that I walked a few afternoons each week. Jake sat on the stoop while I ran upstairs. As usual, Gus was waiting for me at the door of his apartment,; I could hear his tail pounding the floor as I turned the key in the lock. Once I got inside, he hopped around me, nipping delicately at my fingers, nails clackety-clacking at the floor, his tail an ecstatic black blur. I knelt down in front of him, pressed his floppy, expressive ears flat back against his head, and planted a kiss on the side of his long, black schnoz. He whined happily, his whole body shimmying. Gus was one of those dogs who had an entirely different personality at home, where his sense of security gave him the confidence to be joyous and goofy. Out on the street, the shelter pup in him came out and he turned skittish and sorrowful, his tan quotation mark eyebrows pressing together to turn his forehead into a series of of anxious wrinkles. Needless to say, I was gaga for Gus and his layered personality.
Downstairs, I could see right away that Jake loved dogs as much as I did. I had to warn him not to try too hard with Gus; too much attention from a stranger would only make Gus more nervous out there in the big loud world. Jake managed to restrain himself for half a block, but soon was cooing down to Gus, running his hand down the length of his silky black-and-tan coat, and passing him a little piece of chorizo from a napkin that he'd somehow slipped into his pocket at El Farolito without me noticing. Gus pressed himself against Jack's leg and looked adoringly up at him as he gobbled the meat, his tail for a moment wagging as freely as it did at home.”
Dog
Puppy Love
Gus
Annie And Jake
Nicolás, Antonella y Pablo
“No importa si las respuestas las encuentras en un pan con mantequilla o en un bife de chorizo o viajando a otro país, lo que importa es hallarlas. Sin embargo recuerda que siempre están en ti, solo que a veces necesitamos de otros o de alguna situación o inclusive una metáfora o una película o novela para comprenderlas y darles sentido.”
Respuestas
Novelas
Metáfora
Películas
Metáforas
Película
Hallar
“¿Sabe, Daniel? A veces pienso que Darwin se equivocó y que en realidad el hombre desciende del cerdo, porque en ocho de cada diez homínidos hay un chorizo esperando a ser descubierto —argumentaba”
El Prisionero Del Cielo
Sophie Valroux's Paris Stars
“
CHRISTMAS EVE MENU
Foie gras with Caramelized Apples
Salmon with lemon, Cucumber, and Dill, served on Small Rounds of Toasted Bread
Escargots de Bourgogne
Oysters Three Ways
Oysters with a Mignonette Sauce
Oysters with Pimento Peppers and Apple Cider Vinegar
Oysters Rockefeller, deglazed with Pernod, served with Spinach, Pimento Pepper, and Lardons
Sophie's Spiced Langoustes (Spiny Lobster) à l'Armoricaine
AND
Crayfish and Shrimp with a Saffron-infused Aioli Dipping Sauce
AND
Moules à la Plancha with Chorizo
”
Seafood
French Food
Menu
Oysters
Christmas Eve
Girl Cook
“He orders an expensive bottle of Rioja and we begin our tapas extravaganza with plates of dates wrapped in bacon, langoustines in garlic and butter, chorizo in a tomatoey sauce, and a miniature Spanish tortilla (potato, egg, and onion). Our medium-rare steaks are set before us along with a basket of thinly sliced, golden crisped fries. I'm happy to see that Frank enjoys food- with no mention of any weird hang-ups or allergies.
"I was hoping they'd have sweetbreads on the menu," Frank says.
"You like sweetbreads?" I ask, my heart expanding at the mention of calf thymus.
"I'm an organ man," Frank says, taking a sip of wine.
"I know a place where they make great sautéed sweetbreads," I say.
"You?" he asks, a look of pleased astonishment spreading across his face.
"Love 'em," I say. This mutual infatuation with organs bodes well.
Cutting into the steaks with sharp knives, we put morsels in our mouths, close our eyes as if we've died and gone to heaven, chew, and groan, the salty, bloody juices trickling down the backs of our throats.”
Organs
Food And Wine
Dinner Date
Tapas
Foodgasm
Steaks
Sweetbread
Brooklyn in Love: A Delicious Memoir of Food, Family, and Finding Yourself
“
Former pastry chef Sam Mason opened Oddfellows in Williamsburg with two business partners in 2013 and has since developed upwards of two hundred ice cream flavors. Many aren't for the faint of heart: chorizo caramel swirl, prosciutto mellon, and butter, to name a few. Good thing there are saner options in the mix like peanut butter & jelly, s'mores, and English toffee.
A retro scoop shop off Bowery, Morgenstern's Finest Ice Cream has been bringing fanciful flavors to mature palettes since opening in 2014. Creator Nicholas Morgenstern, who hails from the restaurant world, makes small batches of elevated offerings such as strawberry pistachio pesto, lemon espresso, and Vietnamese coffee.
Ice & Vice hails from the Brooklyn Night Bazaar in Greenpoint, and owners Paul Kim and Ken Lo brought it to the Lower East Side in 2015. Another shop devoted to quality small batches, along with weird and wacky flavors, you'll find innovations like Farmer Boy, black currant ice cream with goat milk and buckwheat streusel, and Movie Night, buttered popcorn-flavored ice cream with toasted raisins and chocolate chips.
”
Ice Cream
New York
Flavors
Fusion
Ice Cream Shoppe
Brooklyn in Love: A Delicious Memoir of Food, Family, and Finding Yourself
“The goal of flavor creation is to reach the seven-year-old inside the forty-seven-year-old," Brian explains of their instant connection with customers. While other ice cream start-ups in the city- and there have been plenty launches since Ample Hills, including Oddfellows (2013), Morgenstern's (2014), and Ice & Vice (2015), to name a few- have found their success in offbeat flavors like avocado, extra virgin olive oil, red bean, and chorizo caramel, they aren't made in the same spirit of evoking the fun and play of childhood that Brian finds essential. It's a different brand of creativity.
Even though it inevitably meant waiting in a long line, I loved being the one to go to Ample Hills to pick up a pint because it also meant sampling the flavors. Each one is sweet and creamy, über-rich, and totally original. They're loaded with so many ingredients you never tire of taste testing them. There's Ooey Gooey Butter Cake, a full-flavor vanilla that's studded with chunks of rich, dense Saint Louis-style cake; The Munchies, a salty-sweet pretzel-infused ice cream chock-full of Ritz crackers, potato chips, M&M's, and more pretzels; Nonna D's Oatmeal Lace is brown-sugar-and-cinnamon ice cream chunked with homemade oatmeal cookies; and their signature flavor, Salted Crack Caramel, which involves caramelizing large amounts of sugar on the stove top until it's nearly burnt, giving it a bitterness that distinguishes their version from all the other salted caramels out there.”
Ice Cream
Offbeat
Flavors
Taste Test
Caramel
Pretzels
The Secret French Recipes of Sophie Valroux
“
L'AMUSE-BOUCHE
Chocolate Parmesan Tapioca with a Pan-Seared Scallop
L'ENTREE
Salad with Chèvre Chaud, Honey, and Mint Dressing
OU
Roasted Butternut Squash and Cacao Soup
OU
Oysters with a Mignonette Sauce
LE PLAT PRINCIPAL
Armagnac-and-Chocolate-Infused Daube de Bœuf à la Gascogne
OU
Sweet Potato Curry with Mussels
OU
Chocolate Pasta with a Gorgonzola Cheese Sauce
LA SALADE ET LE FROMAGE
Moules à la Plancha with Chorizo served over a bed of Arugula
Selection of the Château's Cheeses
LE DESSERT
Mousse au Chocolat spiced with Pimento Chili Peppers and Chocolate Flakes, garnished with Mint
I spun around on one heel, excited to get prepping. Unbeknownst to me, the rest of the kitchen staff had arrived, their jaws agape as they stared at the menu. As usual, Phillipa was the first to speak up. "That menu looks wicked incredible."
"I don't know about adding hot peppers to the
mousse au chocolat
," said Jane, and the granny brigade nodded in agreement.
I was so sick of her know-it-all attitude. I knew a thing or two and I was going to stand by my decision. "The combination has Aztec roots. To honor the fertility goddess they drank
xocolāt
, a chocolate concoction spiced with chili pepper and vanilla. It's delicious and unexpected."
Jane rolled her eyes. "You're the chef."
"I am," I said, wanting to challenge her. "And this is the menu.”
Chocolate
Menu
Peppers
French Cuisine
The Secret French Recipes of Sophie Valroux
“
CHRISTMAS EVE MENU
Foie Gras with Caramelized Apples
Salmon with Lemon, Cucumber, and Dill, served on Small Rounds of Toasted Bread
Escargots de Bourgogne
Oysters with a Mignonette Sauce
Oysters with Pimento Peppers and Apple Cider Vinegar
Oysters Rockefeller, deglazed with Pernod, served with Spinach, Pimento Peppers, and Lardons
Sophie's Spiced Langouste (Spiny Lobster) à l'Armoricaine
Crayfish, Crab, and Shrimp with a Saffron-Infused Aioli Dipping Sauce
Moules à la Plancha with Chorizo
Selection of the Château's Cheeses
Three Varieties of Bûche de Noël
The kitchen staff walked in as I threw the chalk on the counter. Phillipa snuck up behind me. "Oh my God. That menu looks wicked incredible. I'm already drooling."
Clothilde nodded her head in approval. "It's perfect. You've made your grandmother proud."
"How many
bûches
do you think we'll need?" asked Gustave, referring to the celebrated and traditional log cakes served in every French restaurant and household sometime during the holiday season.
"Twenty?" I answered.
"Good thing I started on them a few days ago," he said. "Pineapple and mango, chocolate and praline, and vanilla and chestnut."
"No alcohol?" I asked.
"Maybe just a pinch of Armagnac." He held up his forefinger and thumb. Looked like more than a pinch.”
Christmas
Seafood
Cakes
French Food
Menu
Oysters
Crustacean
Soy Sauce for Beginners
“Before long our entire table was covered in food: an earthenware ramekin of pearly-pink prawns bathed in garlic butter; translucent, paper-thin slices of cured ham fanned out on the plate;
tortilla espanola
with nuggets of potato and sweet onion; candy-stripe beets studded with goat cheese and almond slivers; slow-cooked short ribs almost silky in their tenderness; thick chorizo stew.”
Cultural
Fusion
Asian Food
The Power of the Dog
“Adán fell asleep to these stories and slept like the dead until the sun struck him in the eyes and the whole long, wonderful summer day started again with the smell of fresh tortillas, manchaca, chorizo, and fat, sweet oranges.”
Memories
The Shadow of the Wind
“El destino suele estar a la vuelta de la esquina. Como si fuese un chorizo, una furcia o un vendedor de lotería: sus tres encarnaciones más socorridas. Pero lo que no hace es visitas a domicilio. Hay que ir a por él.
-Fermín Romero de Torres.”
Destino
Wedding Girl
“The menu is spectacular. Passed hors d'oeuvres include caramelized shallot tartlets topped with Gorgonzola, cubes of crispy pork belly skewered with fresh fig, espresso cups of chilled corn soup topped with spicy popcorn, mini arepas filled with rare skirt steak and chimichurri and pickle onions, and prawn dumplings with a mango serrano salsa. There is a raw bar set up with three kinds of oysters, and a raclette station where we have a whole wheel of the nutty cheese being melted to order, with baby potatoes, chunks of garlic sausage, spears of fresh fennel, lightly pickled Brussels sprouts, and hunks of sourdough bread to pour it over. When we head up for dinner, we will start with a classic Dover sole amandine with a featherlight spinach flan, followed by a choice of seared veal chops or duck breast, both served with creamy polenta, roasted mushrooms, and lacinato kale. Next is a light salad of butter lettuce with a sharp lemon Dijon vinaigrette, then a cheese course with each table receiving a platter of five cheeses with dried fruits and nuts and three kinds of bread, followed by the panna cottas. Then the cake, and coffee and sweets. And at midnight, chorizo tamales served with scrambled eggs, waffle sticks with chicken fingers and spicy maple butter, candied bacon strips, sausage biscuit sandwiches, and vanilla Greek yogurt parfaits with granola and berries on the "breakfast" buffet, plus cheeseburger sliders, mini Chicago hot dogs, little Chinese take-out containers of pork fried rice and spicy sesame noodles, a macaroni-and-cheese bar, and little stuffed pizzas on the "snack food" buffet. There will also be tiny four-ounce milk bottles filled with either vanilla malted milk shakes, root beer floats made with hard root beer, Bloody Marys, or mimosas.”
Food
Desserts
Menu
Breakfast Lunch And Dinner
Buffets
Food And Drink
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Life
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More
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Stan
Neve
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Because
Though
Where
Ying
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Right
Heart
Said